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| Valuable Information on Pet Health for Breeders and Owners of all Dog Breeds The information provided here is very valuable and cost effective for breeders and dog owners. You will find information on diseases, prevention and low cost treatment in the following paragraphs. Please take time to educate yourself. This information is provided to owners of dogs, regardless of the breed, in hopes that all pets can live a long and healthy life. I am not a Veterinarian, but all of the treatments represented here have been tried with outstanding results from breeders all over the United States. Please note that we do not receive a kick-back for advertising Lambert Vet Supply. After doing research, we have found that they have some of the cheapest prices for pet items. You may find the same items cheaper at another vet supply store. Coccidiosis: Diagnosis, Treatment, and Prevention 
What is Coccidiosis? Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species including canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal infections in North American animals, second only to giardia. Eimeria and Isospora are the two genera that are often referred to as "coccidia." These two genera contain a large number of species that infect a variety of animals throughout the world. The diseases caused by these microscopic protozoal parasites are referred to collectively as coccidiosis, and they vary tremendously in virulence. Some species cause diseases that result in mild symptoms that might go unnoticed (i.e., mild diarrhea) and eventually disappear, while other species cause highly virulent infections that are rapidly fatal. The causative agent is a protozoan that has the ability to multiply rapidly. The major damage is due to the rapid multiplication of the parasite in the intestinal wall, and the subsequent rupture of the cells of the intestinal lining. Several stages of multiplication occur before the final stage, the oocyst, is passed in the feces. Oocysts are extremely resistant to environmental stress and are difficult to completely remove from the environment. Oocysts are frequent contaminants of feed and water and when the sporulated oocysts are ingested by other animals they start the life cycle over in the new host. Life Cycle of Coccidia The life cycles of both genera of coccidia are similar. A host is infected when it ingests oocysts that have been passed in the feces of another host. The oocyst encysts in the host's small intestine, and the sporozoites contained within the oocyst are liberated. The sporozoites penetrate the cells of the host's small intestine and reproduce asexually. Each generation of as exual reproduction produces multiple merozoites; the merozoites are liberated from the cell and infect new cells. It is this stage of the infection that can result in destruction of massive numbers of cells in the host's small intestine and, ultimately, lead to the host's death. Some of the merozoites that enter the host's cells transform into gametocytes. The gametocytes transform into gametes, the gametes fuse, and the resulting zygote begins to develop into an oocyst. The developing oocyst escapes from the host's cell, and it is passed in the host's feces. Typically, when the oocyst is passed in the feces, it is not infective because it does not contain sporozoites; this is an unsporulated oocyst. After several days (or weeks, depending on the species) outside of the host's body, the oocyst completes development and sporozoites are found within; this is a sporulated oocyst, and it is infective to the next host. 
Clinical Signs Clinical signs of coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress such as weather changes; weaning; overcrowding; long automobile or plane rides; relocation to a new home and new owners; and/or unsanitary conditions. Symptoms or signs of coccidiosis will depend on the state of the disease at the time of observation. In general, coccidiosis affects the intestinal tract and symptoms are associated with it. In mild cases, only a watery diarrhea may be present, and if blood is present in the feces, it is only in small amounts. Severely affected animals may have a thin, watery feces with considerable amounts of intestinal mucosa and blood. Straining usually is evident, rapid dehydration, weight loss and anorexia (off feed) also may be clinically visible. One of the most prevalent canine coccidia is S. tenella and during autopsies of dead animals appears as microscopic muscle cysts in the host animal. Oocysts in the feces of dogs are also microscopic in size and can only be positively identified through lab tests or direct observation under a microscope. "Nervous coccidiosis" is a nervous system condition associated with coccidial infection. Signs are consistent with central nervous system involvement, and include muscle tremors, convulsions and other central nervous system symptoms. A consistent sign in "nervous cocci" dogs is that stimulation of any type seems to trigger the symptoms. Death may follow the acute disease either directly or from secondary diseases such as pneumonia. Animals that survive for 10 to 14 days may recover, however, permanent damage may occur. Research has indicated that canines may experience reduced food consumption for up to 13 weeks following clinical infection. Diagnosis usually is obvious but confusion does exist – apparently normal animals can also have oocysts present in their feces. Diarrhea may be present in the animal before the oocysts can be found, therefore, a confirmed laboratory diagnosis may not always be possible. Laboratory findings should be correlated with clinical signs for a diagnosis. The susceptibility of animals to this disease varies. The ingestion of oocysts may not produce the disease; some animals constantly carry them without being affected. Recovered animals develop immunity and seem to be partially resistant to reinfection. Coccidiosis is frequently referred to as an opportunist – a disease that will develop when other stress factors are present. For example, the highest incidence of coccidiosis is in the first 21 days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a new residence. If a normal animal carries oocysts, it is relatively easy for rapid development when the conditions are right – adverse weather, shipping, dog food changes, new owners, new residence, and other stresses are important. In case of a confirmed outbreak of coccidiosis in a kennel full of dogs, the following steps should be started immediately:
1. Separate the sick animals from the healthy ones.
2. Treat sick animals with effective medications.
3. Medicate all the dogs in the kennel or home, as the other animals are likely infected.
General Information General information on coccidiosis in canines: 1. Coccidiosis is an opportunistic disease – it generally affects stressed animals.
2. Kennel conditions provide ideal circumstances for an outbreak.
3. In most confinement situations, prevention with sulfadimethoxine drug such as Albon® is recommended.
4. Mass treatment of all dogs in an entire kennel is usually the only effective method.
5. Sick animals should be treated as soon as possible and isolated from the healthy animals.
6. Have your veterinarian confirm positive diagnosis of the coccidia protozoa in your dog's feces through the use of lab tests or positive identification through direct observation under a microscope. How can I be sure my dog has Coccidia? Diagnosing coccidia is not easy. Diagnosis can be done in one of two ways: via fecal sample by a Vet or via educated evaluation of clinical findings by the breeder/owner or the Vet. Via fecal sample is not straightforward. Even when a flare is at it's worst, the oocysts may not be shedding in every single stool. Therefore, a negative report does not rule out coccidia. The most thorough way to assess is to collect a sample from every single stool produced for 48 to 72 hours and have a Vet examine it. How can infection be treated? Treatment of infected animals is required. Individual treatment should be used when possible, however, medications are available for entire kennel applications. The actual coccidiosis problem is critical and in addition, dehydration and loss of appetite must be treated. Drug selection should be handled with regards to the number of animals infected and the type of application. Sulfas and antibiotics for secondary bacterial infections are available for use. Treatment and prevention are most effective when started early. Most kennels need to segregate and medicate new dogs at the time of arrival. Kennel owners can also reduce exposure by reducing stress, such as overcrowding and poor sanitation. Infection may be treated using a sulfadimethoxine drug such as Albon®, Bactrovet®, or Tribrissen®. Data regarding acute and chronic toxicities of sulfadimethoxine indicate the drug is very safe. The LD50 in mice is greater than 2 g/kg of body weight when administered intraperitoneally and greater than 16 g/kg when administered orally. In dogs receiving massive single oral doses of 3.2 g/kg of body weight, diarrhea was the only adverse effect observed. Dogs given 160 mg/kg of body weight orally daily for 13 weeks showed no signs of toxicity. Treatment may be initiated by a Vet with an Albon Injection 40% (100-mL multiple-dose vials) to obtain effective blood levels almost immediately or to facilitate treatment of the fractious animal. With the Albon Injection 40%, each mL contains 400 mg sulfadimethoxine compounded with 20% propylene glycol, 1% benzyl alcohol, 0.1 mg disodium edetate, 1 mg sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, and pH adjusted with sodium hydroxide. Albon is also available in liquid form: Albon Oral Suspension 5%: 2- and 16-oz bottles; each tsp (5 mL) contains 250 mg sulfadimethoxine in a custard-flavored carrier. Length of treatment with any sulfadimethoxine drug depends on the clinical response. In most cases treatment for 5 days is adequate. Treatment should be continued until the animal is asymptomatic for at least 48 hours. 
The cost to effectively keep coccidiosis infestations out of your dogs may be entirely too much if you take your dog(s) to a Veterinarian. As already stated, a Vet will charge you for an office visit plus the cost of canine dosage sulfadimethoxine pills (Tablets-125 mg, 250 mg, and 500 mg), Albon Injection 40%, and/or Albon Oral Suspension 5%. The cost for the Veterinarian treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to a lot of money per year, especially if you have more than one dog. This article is presented only as a documentation of how tp treat coccidiosis infestations in dogs at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge you. 
| Sulfadimethoxine 12 1/2% solution |
You can buy the Sulfadimethoxine 12 1/2% solution (generic Albon) from Lambert Vet Supply without a prescription and for a lot less money. Active ingredients: Each fluid ounce contains 3.75 grams Sulfadimethoxine solubilized with sodium hydroxide. I buy the one-gallon size jug of the generic brand of Albon which is the Sulfadimethoxine 12 1/2% solution for $40.75 (accurate price as of 04/20/2008) per gallon. Breeders should purchase a gallon jug of either the Sulfadimethoxine (generic Albon) or the name brand Albon for their kennel. Lambert Vet Supply http://www.lambertvetsupply.com/index.php has some of the absolute lowest prices available to help keep dogs in great health while saving hundreds of dollars each and every year. This gallon jug of liquid Sulfadimethoxine is enough antibiotic to medicate a huge kennel full of dogs for several months or even years. If you have more than one dog to treat with the Sulfadimethoxine drug for a coccidiosis outbreak, It is highly recommended that you buy and use the gallon size jug of this medication as well as another product described below and then you can make your own 5% Albon solution just like you get from the Vet. 
| Dyne High Calorie Supplement |
It is also advised to purchase a gallon jug of Dyne High Calorie Supplement, which is a liquid nutritional supplement, from Lambert Vet Supply. You can buy the one-gallon size jug for $33.50 each (accurate price as of 04/20/2008). This product is formulated to provide a nutrient dense liquid diet with essential vitamins and has a high caloric value. This product expedites the rate of recovery of weak or sick animals. It also may be fed as is or diluted with milk for animals unable to eat solid foods. Mix 5 ounces of Dyne High Calorie Supplement with 4 ounces of the Sulfadimethoxine 12 1/2% solution discussed above. This gives you a fairly palatable mixture of the 5% Albon (Rx) at a 85% or higher savings without the required prescription or the expense of a Vet office visit. Many breeders are paying $75 or more per pint for the 5% Albon (Rx) solution that they get from their Vet. This will give you approximately 2-gallons of the 5% Albon (Rx) for only $75 rather than only 1-pint that a Vet will sell you for $75. Once you have this 5% Albon solution mix, each teaspoonful (5 mL) will contain 250 mg of Sulfadimethoxine. Dogs should receive 1 teaspoonful of this 5% Albon Oral Suspension mixture per 10 lb of body weight (25 mg/lb or 55 mg/kg) as an initial dose, followed by ½ teaspoonful per 10 lb of body weight (12.5 mg/lb or 27.5 mg/kg) every 24 hours thereafter. It is recommended that you give this treatment for a total of 10 days. The medication may be administered in food or water, given as a drench orally. Give each dog its own food and medicine in its own feed dish to make sure each dog is getting the proper amount of food and medicine or at least use it as a drench to be given orally to each dog/puppy. This Sulfadimethoxine 12 1/2% solution mixed with the Dyne High Calorie Supplement will save you hundreds of dollars a year. It is urged that all kennels to keep a gallon of each handy. This Sulfadimethoxine 5% solution mix has a wide margin for safety, is very easy to administer, and absolutely works miracles on getting rid of coccidiosis in your dogs. Since coccidiosis is so easily spread from one dog to the next, it is highly recommend all dogs get a full treatment even if only one dog shows symptoms -- better to be safe than sorry. 
This is an outstanding treatment to use in your kennel and you can also check out the article Giardiasis: Diagnosis, Treatment, and Prevention to learn more about the other common protozoal infection called giardiasis. It is very unlikely to eliminate 100% of the coccidiosis infection in all dogs. Adaptations that may be made to try to improve the success rate of a treatment regime include extending the duration and dose of the treatment. Care must obviously be taken with this approach to make sure that an adequate safety margin is always maintained. Another approach is to retreat after an interval of one week of completion of the initial treatment. Alternatively, repeat fecal samples may be collected one week after the treatment and dogs which are still passing oocysts can be identified and treated. It should be recognized that, when treating a large number of dogs, there may still be one or two dogs that remain as carriers of infection that will act as a potential source for reintroducing the infection into your entire kennel. No matter which treatment you choose to utilize (Vet Rx or over-the-counter cattle drugs), the simple fact is that it may not kill all of the coccidia oocysts. A certain number of them can burrow into the lining of the intestines and go dormant. They can stay dormant for years. Due to the hard shell protecting the oocysts, it is almost impossible to kill them when they are encysted in the lining of the intestines. Therefore, during times of stress, the oocysts may re-activate and start to reproduce, causing another outbreak of coccidiosis in your dog or kennel. The amount of stress needed to cause a flare seems to be highly variable with different dogs and dog breeds. Important Note: A healthy dog may have been infected years before and never have shown any symptoms (asymptomatic carrier). They may occasionally shed very low numbers of oocysts in stools--evaluating every stool (the WHOLE stool) for something like six months is supposed to be the conclusive way to rule out an asymptomatic carrier (someone did this with a couple dogs for a study). This would cost literally thousands of dollars! Not exactly a practical way to test. Coccidiosis and giardiasis are both very common protozoal infestations that have the exact same clinical symptoms; therefore, both diseases should get treated one right after the other: coccidiosis for 10 days and giardiasis for 5 days if using Metronidazole or 3 days if using Fenbendazole. Once again, I treat coccidiosis with Sulfadimethoxine (Albon), and giardiasis with Metronidazole (Flagyl) or Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard). How to eliminate coccidia from your kennel or home? Once infection is present in a kennel, control may be approached in two ways:
1. Identification, isolation and treatment of infected dogs.
2. Mass treatment of all dogs.
Option 1 is only practical where a few dogs in a discrete area have been identified as being infected and where complete isolation is feasible, either within their own block or in a specific isolation block. Such isolation includes segregation of exercise areas and these animals should be fed and cleaned after all others on the premises, preferably using separate cleaning and feeding equipment and separate staff if possible. Treatment of all dogs should commence on the same day when option 2 is adopted. Thorough cleaning of all kennel areas where infected dogs have access is essential. Once organic debris has been removed, thorough disinfection will help to further reduce the level of environmental contamination and reduce the risk of dogs becoming re-infected after the completion of treatment. Disinfectants containing quaternary ammonium compounds have been found to kill Coccidia oocysts at the manufacturers' recommended dilutions (dilutions of one disinfectant up to 1:704 were found to be effective at both low and high environmental temperatures). I disinfect all my kennels twice per month by washing everything down with a mixture consisting of 8 ounces of bleach per gallon of water. Make sure you let it set at least 20 minutes, rinse thoroughly, and then let it get completely dry before letting your dogs use the kennels again. Important Note: The efficacy of killing is increased by prolonged contact time, therefore disinfectant solution should be left for 20 minutes to half an hour before being rinsed off kennel or run surfaces. Since disinfection of grass runs is impossible, such area should be regarded as contaminated for at least a month after infected dogs last had access. Introduction of new dogs into the infected area should be avoided until the period of treatment and fecal sample checking has been completed. It should not be overlooked that some of the infected dogs may continue to excrete low numbers of oocysts even after all treatments and examinations have been completed. It is therefore important that rigorous disinfection is maintained and a careful check is kept on the condition of all treated and introduced animals. The following are recommendations for eliminating coccidia from kennels and homes: 1. Treat all dogs with sulfadimethoxine for 10 days disinfect kennel areas, etc, with quaternary ammonium disinfectants which are effective in inactivating coccidia oocysts. 2. Bathe dogs with shampoo to remove all fecal matter, rinse with water 3. Rinse dogs with quaternary ammonium disinfectants, then water 4. Allow kennels to dry thoroughly for several days 5. Retreat with sulfadimethoxine for 7 days 6. Treat any new dogs with sulfadimethoxine (e.g. Albon) for 10 days even if they test negative for coccidia because it is so hard to detect in fecal tests 
How can infection be prevented? It is very difficult to prevent the entry of an infection that is known to be carried by a percentage of normal dogs into a kennel. However, an initial period of isolation for all new entrants into kennels, for perhaps ten days, would reduce the risk of an infected dog spreading a large number of oocysts around the main kennel area. All dogs could be observed and any infection present, which in the case case of coccidia might be exacerbated by the stress of entry in kennels, could be identified and treated before entry into the main kennels. Dogs should be prevented from access to foul water that may contain large numbers of oocysts (e.g.: river-flooded paddocks). Small numbers of oocysts may occasionally be present in the potable water supply but the risk of this being a major source of infection is small. It is best to use chlorinated water for your dogs drinking water as much as possible. If you are using non-chlorinated water from a well, lake, or stream, you need to chlorinate the water yourself. To chlorinate drinking water: Use only liquid bleach that contains 5.25% sodium hypochlorite as its only active ingredient - no soap. Use a scant 4 drops of bleach per quart of water or 2 teaspoons per 10 gallons. As an alternate method of purification, you can also boil all of your dog's drinking water. To make sure the water is completely bacteria free, you need to bring the water to a rapid boil for a minimum of five (5) minutes. Remember, Cool moist conditions favor the survival of the organism; therefore, simply by keeping everything clean, disinfected, and dry you will be getting a lot further toward exterminating this nasty little one-celled parasite. Remember, coccidiosis and giardiasis are both very common protozoal infestations that have the exact same clinical symptoms; therefore, I recommend that both protozoans get treated one right after the other: coccidia for 10 days and then giardia for 5 days if using Metronidazole or 3 days if using Fenbendazole. Once again, you can treat coccidiosis with Sulfadimethoxine (Albon) and giardiasis with Metronidazole (Flagyl) or Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard). Giardiasis: Diagnosis, Treatment, and Prevention 
What is Giardiasis? Giardiasis is an intestinal infection caused by a parasitic protozoan (single celled organism) called Giardia lamblia. These protozoans are found in the intestines of many animals, including dogs and humans. This microscopic parasite clings to the surface of the intestine, or floats free in the mucous lining the intestine. Veterinary research documents suggest that 5% to 10% of all dogs in North America have giardiasis at any given time. Surveys also show that about 14% of the adult dog population and over 30% of dogs under one year of age were infected at some point during their life, and thus contributed to passing along this intestinal infection to other dogs. Another Vet research article I found suggests that 100% of kennel dogs, 50% of pups, and 10% of well-cared for dogs carry giardia. Life cycle of Giardia  Giardia occur in two forms: a motile feeding stage that lives in the intestine, and a non-motile cyst stage that passes in the feces. The giardia trophozoite (photo above left) which is the active stage of the organism - inhabits the small intestine of the dog. The trophozoite stage is tear-drop shaped, binucleated, and has four pairs of flagella. It attaches to the cells of the intestine with its adhesive disc and rapidly divides to produce a whole population of trophozoites. As they detach they may be swept down the intestine. If intestinal flow is fast then they may appear in the feces. However, if they have time, encystment occurs as the parasite travels to the large intestine. The cyst is fairly resistant, and can survive for several months outside of a host's body as long as sufficient moisture is provided. The cyst is oblong in shape with four nuclei that are sometimes distinctly visible. Mature cysts are usually found in the feces of infected animals. Other animals become infected by ingesting the cysts that passed from the body in feces. These ingested cysts then break open inside the small intestine to release the motile feeding stage (trophozoite). Giardia increase their numbers by each organism dividing in half which is called binary fission (photo below). 
How did my dog get Giardia? Giardia lives and reproduces in the small intestine of host animals. Giardia trophozoites, the free living stage of the organism, form infective cysts that are passed out in the feces. If the cysts are present in a wet or damp environment they can survive in a viable state for a few weeks to several months. Giardia infections are transmitted via ingestion of trophozoites or cysts in contaminated water or food. If a giardia cyst is ingested, the cyst wall is broken down during the digestive process and the trophozoite stage begins to colonize the upper small intestine. Transmission also occurs by direct contact, especially with asymptomatic carriers. More recently, giardiasis has also been recognized as being able to be sexually transmitted. Giardia is so prevalent throughout North America because it is highly contagious. The ingestion of as few as one or more giardia cysts may cause the disease, as contrasted to most bacterial illnesses where hundreds to thousands of organisms must be consumed to produce illness. What harm does Giardia do to my dog? Giardia causes its unpleasant effects on the body not by invading the tissues, but simply by being in the way. It multiplies to the point where it sort of paves the lining of the intestine and blocks normal digestion (malabsorption). This causes only partially digested food to get lower in the digestive tract than it should, causing diarrhea. 
(Photo Above) Scanning electron micrograph of giardia attached to the inner surface of the intestine. What are the clinical signs associated with infection? The trophozoites divide to produce a large population, then they begin to interfere with the absorption of food. Clinical signs range from none in asymptomatic carriers, to mild recurring diarrhea consisting of soft, light-colored stools, to acute explosive diarrhea in severe cases. Other signs associated with giardiasis are weight loss, listlessness, fatigue, mucus in the stool, and anorexia. These signs are also associated with other diseases of the intestinal tract, and are not specific to giardiasis. These signs, together with the beginning of cyst shedding, begin about one week post-infection. There may be additional signs of large intestinal irritation, such as straining and even small amounts of blood in the feces. Usually the blood picture of affected animals is normal, though occasionally there is a slight increase in the number of white blood cells and mild anemia. Without treatment, the condition may continue, either chronically or intermittently, for weeks or months. How can I be sure my dog has Giardia? Diagnosing giardia is not easy. Diagnosis can be done in one of two ways: via fecal sample by a Vet or via educated evaluation of clinical findings by the breeder/owner or the Vet. Via fecal sample is not straightforward. Even when a flare is at it's worst, the cysts will not be shedding in every single stool. Therefore, a negative report does not rule out giardia. The most thorough way to assess is to collect a sample from every single stool produced for 48 to 72 hours and have a Vet examine it using the giardia test kit. 
The giardia test is a monoclonal antibody-based ELISA for the rapid detection of Giardia lamblia cysts antigen in stool specimens and serves as an in vitro aid in the diagnosis of giardiasis. FEATURES OF THE GIARDIA TEST Rapid (results in < 1 hour) Specific for giardia Easy to perform High standardized Microwell format Observation shows that stools that are bloody and full of mucous are most likely to contain cysts. Via clinical findings is the other way to diagnose. This means the breeder/owner or Vet takes a look at the dog, evaluates the history and symptoms, and treats on that basis. If the treatment is successful, the diagnosis was accurate. How can infection be treated for less? 
| Fish Zole, 250 mg Metronidazole, 100 Tablets, Non-prescription |
Infection may be treated using one of a number of different drugs that are available through Vet Supply Stores. The treatment of choice is often with Metronidazole (brand name Flagyl). Metronidazole has two interesting properties--the action is largely confined to the gut and it also seems to stimulate the local immune system. Metronidazole kills off the giardia and reduces the numbers to the level the dog's immune system can handle. You can purchase the Metronidazole tablets from from Lambert Vet Supply without a prescription and for a lot less money. Vet bills can cost as much as $15.00 for two (2) 250 mg tablets. You can buy a product called FISH-ZOLE which is simply the prescription Metronidazole (Rx) bottled and labeled for fish tank use. It is a bottle of 250 mg x 100 tablets of Metronidazole (Flagyl) for only $11.17 (current price as of 04/20/2008). These are the exact same tablets: same size, same color, and even same markings. Recommended Dosage: Give an adult dog (avg. 85 lbs) three 250 mg tablet twice per day and puppies (avg. 8-12 lbs) one-half of a 250 mg tablet twice per day for a total of 5 days. In 5 days, your dog will be 100% FREE from giardiasis. These tablets are extremely easy to administer, and this is also the dosage which is recommended by most Vets. You will not find this medication cheaper anywhere else. Click on the picture of the FISH-ZOLE bottle to the left of this paragraph and order several bottles today. (NOTE: Lambert Vet Supply strives to promote healthly animals and help customers save lots of money on animal health care products. You can find more information about Lambert Animal Health Care here: http://www.lambriarvet.com/) Alternatively, you may want to use Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard) since you are likely already purchasing large amounts of this inexpensive and very safe medication as a treatment for deworming your dogs. You can also check out the article Canine Intestinal Worms and Inexpensive Treatment to learn more about Fenbendazole and place an order for it. The exact same dosage and three-day de-worming treatment using Fenbendazole for de-worming dogs will also rid them of the giardia protozoan. Treatments from the Vet research literature are shown in the table below. Whatever treatment is chosen, it is very unlikely to eliminate 100% of the infection in all dogs. Adaptations that may be made to try to improve the success rate of a treatment regime include extending the duration and dose of the treatment. Care must obviously be taken with this approach to make sure that an adequate safety margin is always maintained. Another approach is to retreat after an interval of one week. Alternatively, repeat fecal samples may be collected one week after the treatment and dogs which are still passing cysts can be identified and treated. It should be recognized that, when treating a large number of dogs, whichever of these treatment strategies is adopted, there may be one or two dogs that remain as carriers of infection that will act as a potential source for reintroducing the infection into your entire kennel. Treatments for Giardiasis in dogs.
(This information is taken straight out of the Vet Medical Manual) Drug Name Trade Name DoseRate Duration of Treatment Metronidazole Flagyl 11.5 to 15 mg/lb BID** 5 days Furazolidone Neftin 2 mg/lb BID* 10 days Fenbendazole Safe-Guard or Panacur*** 22.5 to 25 mg/lb once daily 7 days Tinadazole ---- 22 mg/lb once daily 3 days Demodectic Mange and Inexpensive Treatment   
 Demodectic Mange is a condition seen in both dogs and cats caused by different species of Demodex mites. It is interesting to note that Demodex mites are present on the skin of all normal animals, including people, and usually exist in small numbers within the hair follicles. Demodectic Mange is therefor considered non-contagious since all animals already have these mites. Apparently, animals are not born with the mites but acquire them from their mothers in the first few days of life, during the nursing process. As of today, there are 65 known species of Demodex mites. If Demodex mites are present on all normal animals, why do some animals develop mange and most do not? Animals with mange may have an inherited or acquired immune defect that fails to keep the mite numbers in check. The result is a demodectic mite population explosion which not only crowds the hairs within hair follicles and results in bacterial infections, but the mites produce other substances that then further compromise the immune system. It is important to remember that these mites are normal residents on the skin (albeit in small numbers) and reflect an underlying important defect of the immune system. The proliferation of mites is therefore an effect, rather than a cause, of the condition. In young animals, which are most commonly affected with mange, the condition likely reflects an inherited incompetence of the immune system. 
Not all young animals afflicted with mange are destined to be immunologically handicapped for life. A large percentage tend to self-cure when they reach immunologic maturity whick may range from 8 months to 3 years of age, depending on the breed. It is estimated that 90% of pups affected with improve naturally if given supportive care. The 10% which are considered to have generalized mange should be considered to be immunologically crippled but can be made systeomatically better by using treatments to kill the mite population, and thereby lessening the incidence of bacterial infections. This is where the cost to keep an infected dog may be entirely too much if you take the dog to a Veterinarian. A Vet will use a multitude of expensive treatments which usually include cleansing shampoos, antibiotic therapy, topical insecticides Mitaban (Rx) or its active ingredient Amitraz, and immune stimulants. The cost for the Veterinarian treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to hundreds of dollars per year. This article is presented only as a documentation of how to treated Demodectic Mange in dogs at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the expensive medications, therapies, insecticides, and shampoos. 
Patchy hair loss in a dog can be caused by several things, but the three most common causes are ringworms, Sarcoptic Mange and Demodectic Mange. The diagnosis of Demodex Mange mites is usually not difficult if the skin is firmly squeezed (to express the mites from the follicles), then scraped with a scalpel blade, and the collected material examined with a microscope. The adult mites are often described as resembling cigars or alligators and the eggs are more tear drop-shaped. If scrapings are not done, the mites are easily seen on biopsy specimens within the hair follicle. If you decide to use a treatment (such as the one I will describe) to kill the mites specifically, you should do so with the assumption that you are dealing with an immunologically handicapped animal. This warrants spaying or neutering of the pet and making sure it does not contribute to future generations of immunologically-disabled pets. If it is determined that your pet has ringworms, please check out the article on Canine Ringworms and Inexpensive Treatment. Also, the medication given for heartworm prevention has a second benefit in keeping your dog free of Demodex mites. One method that works extremely well is a cattle dip called Prolate which is used to rid a dog of sarcoptic mange mites. You can learn more the article on using Prolate by reading Sarcoptic Mange and Inexpensive Treatment. Simply dip your dog three (03) times per week for about two (02) to three (03) weeks. You should also use a good dandruff shampoo between dips if loose scaly skin is a problem. Cortisone cream is great for severe itching, and any of many topical antibiotic ointments are great for preventing or treating secondary bacterial infections. NOTE: This treatment is a topical solution that is sprayed/dipped onto the skin/hair and attacks the mites from the outside in. Another treatment that works very well and is also fairly inexpensive is the use of Ivomec for cattle. This is the same medication talked about in the article called Canine Heartworms and Inexpensive Prevention. If you are going to buy the Ivomec for the heartworm prevention, then you might as well use it for getting rid of Demodex Mange mites as well as ear mites. I administer a subcutaneous (under the skin) injection at the back of the neck, consisting of 1/10 cc of Ivomec for cattle per 10 lbs of dog body weight. I give one shot every seven days for 3 consecutive doses. Explained differently, that is one shot, wait 7 days, give a second shot, wait 7 more days, and then give a third shot. This is a very effective treatment for both mange mites and ear mites. If you are already buying the large bottles of Ivomec for cattle to use as a heartworm prevention, then you might as well also use it for this purpose when needed. This is a very clean treatment method, and for maximum effectiveness can be used in conjunction with the first or second treatment method listed above. NOTE: This treatment is a liquid medication that is given orally and attacks the mites from the inside out. No matter which of these inexpensive treatments you may decide to use, the main thing is to do the treatment and follow ups correctly and in a timely manner. If done correctly and in a timely manner, you will definitely see the mange spots healing up with hair growing back into the hair loss areas. At this point you can discontinue the treatments and only start them again if you see another episode of mange developing. Both of these treatments are only designed to kill the mites and thus stop the hair loss and bacterial skin infections. The dog will look healthy and feel much better with no hair loss, skin infections, or itching. The cause of the overpopulation of Demodex mites (mange) is a bad immune system which can be passed genetically to any offspring. This warrants spaying or neutering of the pet and making sure it does not contribute to future generations of immunologically-disabled pets. Sarcoptic Mange and Inexpensive Treatment    
Sarcoptic Mange, commonly known as canine scabies is caused by external parasites Sarcoptes scabiei. These microscopic mites can invade the sik of healthy dogs or puppies and create a variety of skin problems, the most common of which is hair loss and severe itching. While they will infect all types of animals and even humans, they are a particular nuisance for dogs. Sarcoptic Mange mites are extremely easy for any dog to catch, but also, they are very easy to get rid off. In this article, You will find below, a very effective and inexpensive way to treat and rid your dog of this pesky parasite.   
 Sarcoptic Mange can infect all ages and breeds of dogs. This particular mite infests all types of farm animals, cats, dogs, foxes, coyotes, and all other types of warm-blooded, fur bearing mammals and even infects humans. Their are several species of sarcoptic mitesand each speicies of mites prefers one specific kind of host (e.g. dog), but will also infect all other species within the animal kingdom. Since all of these species of mites have a similar life cycle and respond to the same treatment, it is assumed that the vast majority of dog infections are caused by the mite Sarcoptes scabiei and will learn how to treat accordingly. The mites usually spend their entire life on a dog. The female mite burrows into the skin and lays eggs several times as she continues burrowing. These tunnels can actually reach the length of several centimeters. After she deposits the eggs, the female mite dies. In 3-8 days, the eggs hatch into larvae which have 6 legs. The larvae mature into nymphs which have 8 legs. The nymph then molts into an adult while it is still in the burrow. The adults mate, and the process continues. The entire life cycle requires 2-3 weeks. The mites prefer to live on the dog, but will live for several days off of the host in the environment; thus, Sarcoptic Mange mites are an environmental problem and not a genetic problem like with Demodectic Mange mites (aka red mange). In cool moist environments, Sarcoptic mites can live for up to 22 days in the environment and not on a host. At normal room temperature in a home, they will live from 2 to 6 days. Because of the mite's ability to survive off the host, dogs can become infected without ever coming into direct contact with another infected dog. The symptoms are varied but usually include hair loss and severe itching on the top of the head, elbows, ears, armpits, hocks, chest, and ventral abdomen (belly). The mites prefer to live on areas of the skin that have less hair. As the infection worsens it can spread over the entire body. Small red pustules often develop along with yellow crust on the skin. Because of the severe itching and resultant scratching from the dog, the skin soon becomes traumatized and a variety of sores and infections can develop as a result. The itching seems to be much worse in warm conditions such as indoors or near a stove or heat vent. If the infection goes on untreated or is mistakenly treated as an allergy (#1 misdiagnosis by Vets), the skin may darken due to the constant irritation, and the surrounding lymph nodes may become enlarged. Sarcoptic Mange is an extremely common infection and many cases have often been misdiagnosed as severe allergy to a certain type of dog food or environmental plants. In many parts of the US and Canada including all of North and South America, there are more dogs with sarcoptic mange than their are with ticks, fleas, lice, or even ear mites. For these reasons, any time you see a dog with severe itching, and no fleas or ticks are seen on the dog's skin, you should suspect Sarcoptic Mange as the main culprit. The intense itching caused by the sarcoptic mite is actually thought to be caused by a severe allergic reaction to the mite. When dogs are innitially infected with Sarcoptes they do not develop itching for several weeks. If the animals are treated and then reinfected at a later time, severe itching starts almost immediately, which indicates the itching may be due to an allergic reaction. However, the standard treatments for allergies generally will not decrease the symptoms of scabies, and will do nothing to cure the disease. This is again the exact reason to always assume scabies and treat accordingly. Trying to get a diagnosis for scabies can be very frustrating to say the least. The standard method that a Vet will use is to perform a skin scraping and then identify the organism under the microscope. Unfortunately, on average, only twenty (20%) percent of the infected dogs will show Sarcoptes mites on any given scraping. Therefore, if a dog has a positive skin scraping the diagnosis is confirmed, but a negative scraping does not rule out sarcoptic mange. Therefore, most diagnoses are made based on history and response to treatment for scabies. Also, many Vets are now charging as much as $50 or more to perform a skin scraping. Therefore, it is easier and less expensive to simply be proactive and treat for sarcoptic mites rather than to pay for an office visit, skin scraping, and prescription Vet treatments. There are several ways to treat scabies, and in this and the next paragraph, you will learn how Vets treat the problem and how you can treat the problem much more effectively and inexpensively. In the past, the treatment for all types of external parasites in all types of animals was Dursban (Chlorpyrifos), but the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has since banned this effective and inexpenisive product. After the banning of Dursban, the next most effective treatment had been to clip the dog if it had long hair, bathe it with a benzoyl peroxide shampoo to cleanse the skin, and then apply Paramite organophosphate dip. Amitraz dip and Mitaban dip (also organophosphates), and LymDip lime sulfer dips have also been used effectively. The animal are usually dipped once every two weeks for two to three times. While effective, these didps are very messy to apply and unpleasant for both the owner and the dog. Because the dip must come in contact with the mites and many mites live on the face and ears of dogs, great care must be exercised when applying these dips to these sensitive areas. The dips can be toxic to humans and are not suitable for very young, old, or debilitated animals. In addition, there are some reported cases of resistance to these dips in some cases of mange. Fortunately, there are several other products that have been extremely effective, safe, and convenient in treating Sarcoptic Mange. Selamectin (Revolution) is a newer product, which is a topical solution that is applied once a month and provides heartworm prevention, flea control, some tick protection and protection against Sarcoptic Mange. Liquid Ivermectin is another alternative that is sometimes used. It is used at much higher concentrations that are found in heartworm preventives (e.g., Heartgard). Ivermectin should not be used in Collies or Shetland sheep dogs and should be used with caution in the herding breeds. In dogs that are sensitive to Ivermectin, some veterinarians have been having success using Milbemycin Oxime (Interceptor) at an off-label dose. In addition to treating the dog, the environment can be treated with a residual insecticide (e.g.; Permethrin). The cost to effectively keep Sarcoptic Mange mite infestations out of your dogs may be entirely too much if you take your dog(s) to a Veterinarian. As already stated, a Vet will charge you for an office visit plus the cost of skin scrapings, and prescription Amitraz solutions like Paramite and Mitaban. The cost for the Veterinarian treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to a lot of money per year, especially if you have more than one dog. This article is presented only as a documentation of how to treat Sarcoptic Mange mite (scabies) infestations in your dogs at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge you. 
| Prolate®/Lintox®-HD |
You can buy Prolate®/Lintox®-HD from Lambert Vet Supply without a prescription and for a lot less money. Prolate is an extremely effective, topical insecticide that works just as good or even better than prescription Amitraz products such as Paramite® (topical) and Mitaban® (oral). Prolate is bottled and labeled for use as a topical insecticide for livestock use such as cows, pigs, horses, etc. I buy the one-gallon size jug of the Prolate solution for $50.95 (accurate price as of 04/27/2008) per gallon. This one gallon jug of Prolate is enough topical insecticide to use off-label and treat a huge kennel full of dogs for several months or even years. If you have more than one dog to treat with a topical insecticide for a Sarcoptic Mange mite outbreak, it is recommend that breeders buy and use the one gallon size jug of this medication and then you can make a solution just like the expensive, prescription dips you get from the Vet. All you have to do is mix 1 ounce (1 oz.) of Prolate per 1 gallon of water. You can then place the highly effective mix in a dipping barrel, a commercial sprayer, or even a small household spray bottle. You then simply dip or spray down your dogs being careful not to get it in the eyes or mouth of you or your dog. You can also use the spray as a kennel spray to eliminate all mites located in the kennels, dog runs, dog houses, or other sleeping areas. You can put the Prolate directly on each and every dog/pup three (03) times per week for about two (02) weeks in a row. This assures that you kill any mites that are on the outer skin or hair of your dog(s). The mites that are buried under the skin will not be affected by the spray and that is why the multiple treatments, so that you kill all the mites as they come to the outer skin and hair. This one gallon jug of Prolate is enough topical insecticide to make 128 gallons of topical insecticide dip or spray with the exact same effectiveness as the Paramite or Mitaban that a Vet will prescribe at a tremendous cost savings. The Vets are currently prescribing Mitaban (oral medication) at the cost of $22.25 or more for a 10.6 ml vial; often times, one oral treatment is not enough to work 100% effectively. If you only have 2 or 3 dogs, you can buy the Prolate in a 1 quart (1 qt.) size for $18.31 (accurate price as of 04/27/2008) and that would make you 32 gallons of the mix. The Prolate dip/spray works wonders on sarcoptic mites, ear mites, lice, and even ticks. The mix will be a milky white color and it will smell like common household bug sprays such as Black Flag or Raid (do not use any insecticide as a substitute). Make sure you always stir dips and shake sprays to get a good mixture before each use. When dipping a dog, dip the entire body from the tail up to the base of the ears and then use a rag that is saturated in the solution to rub the face around eyes and mouth. If you are using a sprayer, make sure to saturate all hair loss areas and all healthy hair/skin for several inches around the hair loss areas and then spray regularly all over the rest of the body. No matter how you treat your dog(s) for Sarcoptic Mange mites, the main thing is to do the treatment and follow ups correctly and in a timely manner. If done correctly and in a timely manner, you will definitely see the mange spots healing up with hair growing back into the hair loss areas. At this point you can discontinue the treatments and only start them again if you see another episode of mange developing. The Prolate dip/spray treatments are only designed to kill the mites and thus stop the hair loss and bacterial skin infections. The dog will look healthy and feel much better with no hair loss, skin infections, or itching. Remember, Sarcoptic Mange mites are an environmental problem and these parasites are both very easy to catch from the environment or from any kind of warm-blooded, mammals, but they are also very easy to exterminate from your dog(s) and/or kennel.
Canine Diseases and Inexpensive Prevention The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," might be better stated as, "A dollar's worth of prevention is worth ten dollar's worth of cure." Whichever way you state it, preventing disease is always better than treating it. The prevention of infectious disease hinges on three basic things: maintaining high levels of general health, limiting exposure to potential sources of infectious agents, and administering the proper vaccines in a proper and timely manner. Vaccinating dogs and puppies should be the simplest component of your infectious disease control program; however, the careless way in which many people approach their vaccination program leaves much to be desired. This article will review the common infectious diseases which are commonly vaccinated against, and outline a basic vaccination program. PARVOVIRUS Parvo is caused by a virus that attacks the lining of the small intestine of all canines. Infection results in enteric disease characterized by sudden onset of vomiting and diarrhea, often with blood. Susceptibility cannot be avoided. Any puppy exposed to the virus during the susceptibility period will most likely come down with the disease, regardless of many vaccination schedules. The virus is spread by a fecal-oral route. This means that the virus is passed, by the billions, in the stool of an infected canine and then ingested by another canine. It can live in the environment for years and still be infectious, and can be spread on hands, boots, feed dishes, etc. A puppy should receive a booster every three (3) - four (4) weeks from six (6) weeks of age until at least sixteen (16) weeks of age. People often begin vaccinating before six weeks of age, but it is a widely accepted fact that interference from natural antibodies (the immune protection pups get from their dam) blocks the vaccine. Another common mistake is to vaccinate more frequently then every three weeks. The immune system can not respond to vaccines given more frequently than three week intervals, and a decreased immune response may even occur. Females should be boosted two (2) weeks prior to breeding. CORONAVIRUS Corona is caused by another species-specific virus which attacks the small intestinal lining. The symptoms of the disease include lethargy, anorexia, and depression. The sudden onset of vomiting occurs, in which blood can sometimes be found. Diarrhea is moderate to severe and is projectile. Feces is yellow-orange colored with blood and mucous occasionally found. In some kennels Coronavirus has been quite a severe problem. Most veterinarians consider this vaccine somewhat optional with the exception of certain kennels. It is recommended Coronavirus vaccination at twelve (12) weeks with a booster at sixteen (16) weeks, and do not routinely revaccinate older dogs. DISTEMPER Canine Distemper is caused by a virus closely related to the human measle virus. It is considered the most serious viral disease of dogs in the world. Approximately 50% of nonvaccinated, nonimmunized dogs infected with CD virus develop clinical signs of the disease and approximately 90% of those dogs infected with CD die. All the bodily secretions of an infected animal contain the virus, it is highly contagious, and it is primarily spread by an airborne route. It's more frequent and acutely affects pups under 3 months of age. Early clinical signs include anorexia, diarrhea, and dehydration. As the disease progresses, fever, depression, vomiting, and bloody diarrhea may be observed accompanied by signs of respiratory distress. Coughing, labored breathing, inflammation of tissues around the eyes and nose, and mucopurulent oculonasal discharge may occur. If dogs recover from Distemper they often have lifelong complications. Like Parvo, Distemper vaccine should be administered every three (3) - four (4) weeks from six (6) to sixteen (16) weeks of age with annual boosters. LEPTOSPIROSIS Lepto is an acute infectious disease that is characterized by depression, fever, and loss of appetite. The mucous membranes are usually deeply congested. Jaundice sometimes occurs indicating severe liver involvement. The kidneys can also be damaged, resulting in Uremia, vomiting, dehydration, Polyuria (excessive urination), and polydipsia (excessive thirst). It is a bacterial disease which seems to be having an upswing in varying locales across North America. The organism is shed in the urine of infected animals and is contagious by penetration of abraded skin or mucous membranes. All dogs should receive at least four vaccinations against Lepto as a puppy. Most commercially available Distemper/Parvovirus vaccines also include Lepto in their combinations. INFECTIOUS TRACHEOBRONCHITIS (KENNEL COUGH) Infectious Tracheobronchitis (ITB) is often inappropriately labeled "Kennel Cough" which is more of a syndrome rather than a distinct disease entity. Some of the more commonly involved organisms at work are CAV-2, Parainfluenza, and Bordetella Bronchiseptica. The syndrome is highly contagious and may cause a dry, retching cough that can lead to a severe Pneumonia. Puppies should be vaccinated with CAV-2 and Parainfluenza four times and Bordetella two times. These three separate diseases that cause ITB (or Kennel Cough) are explained in more detail. CANINE ADENOVIRUS TYPE 2 and TYPE 1 Infections are primarily respiratory, evidenced by Pneumonia, Bronchitis, Tonsillitis, and Pharyngitis. CAV-2 is one of the causes of Infectious Tracheobronchitis (ITB) that is often labeled "Kennel Cough." CAV-2 has not been associated with Corneal Opacity ("blue eyes"), Uveitis or virus localization in the kidneys, which may be characteristic of Canine Adenovirus Type 1 (CAV-1) infections. This virus is spread in the bodily secretions of infected dogs and a wide variety of carnivorous wildlife. Infectious Canine Hepatitis is rare in dogs today due to the efficacy of the vaccine. Like Lepto, Adenovirus is given in combination with Distemper/Parvo four times. PARAINFLUENZA Canine Parainfluenza is a highly contagious respiratory disease which contributes to upper respiratory disease and Infectious Tracheobronchitis. It is one of the three major diseases that causes ITB which is also labeled "Kennel Cough." Characteristic clinical signs of CPI Infection is coughing that may be intensified by activity or excitement. Environmental factors such as drafts, colds and high humidity may enhance susceptibility to the disease. Typically, CPI is self-limiting, with a course of 5 to 10 days duration. However, secondary bacterial infection of the respiratory tract are not uncommon, and may complicate the clinical syndrome. Like Lepto, Parainfluenza is given in combination with Distemper/Parvo. BORDETELLA BRONCHISEPTICA Bordetella is also one of the three most common causes of Canine Upper Respiratory Disease Complex, known as "Kennel Cough." The symptoms include a harsh, dry cough, aggravated by activity or excitement. The cough is followed by retching or gagging in an attempt to clear small amounts of mucous from the throat. Body temperatures may be elevated as secondary bacterial infection takes place. This disease is highly contagious and is readily transmitted to susceptible dogs. Like Coronavirus, Bordetella is administered at twelve (12) and again at sixteen (16) weeks with an annual booster. LYME DISEASE Lyme Disease is caused by a bacterial organism known as Borrelia Bugdorferi. It is transmitted by the bite of an infected tick. The most common clinical manifestation is one of pain in multiple joints. In regions where vaccination is warranted, puppies should receive two (2) doses three (3) - four (4) weeks apart. RABIES Rabies is an invariably fatal disease which affects all warm-blooded animals (including humans). The virus is spread in the saliva of infected animals and can be absorbed across abraded (broken or irritated) skin, mucous membranes, and even the eye. A single dose of vaccine is given at three (3) - four (4) months of age with a booster of Annumune at one year old, and then a booster of Trimune once every three years after that. I encourage all of you to keep up on your dog's vaccinations and follow the vaccination schedule below. If you want to save a bunch of money, You can purchase vaccine and syringes for just a few dollars at your Veterinarian Supply Store or through a catalog from a Vaccine Wholesale Supplier. Most states will let you purchase and administer your own pet's shots. If you can not stand needles or giving shots, then go to a shot clinic rather than a Vet office. Shot clinics charge only a few dollars per shot with no office visit charge. Note that some states require the Rabies vaccination to only be administered by a Veterinarian. Then the Vet will give you a Rabies Certificate so you can show proof of the Rabies vaccination when you go to purchase your city or county dog license. Also, if your dog is a house-pet, you live in the city, and you never take your dog outside of the city limits (fields or woods), then you do not need to administer the Lyme Disease vaccine. 6 Weeks
Distemper, Parvo, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza, Lepto 9 Weeks
Distemper, Parvo, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza, Lepto 12 Weeks
Distemper, Parvo, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza, Lepto, Coronavirus, Bordetella (Infectious Tracheobronchitis), Lyme Disease 16 Weeks and Annually
Distemper, Parvo, Adenovirus, Parainfluenza, Lepto, Coronavirus, Bordetella (Infectious Tracheobronchitis), Lyme Disease, Rabies 12 Months (One Year)
Rabies (also given once every 3 years after the one year booster) Remember, the old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," and the new saying, "A dollar's worth of prevention is worth ten dollar's worth of cure." No matter which way you say it, preventing disease is always better than treating it. Please keep your dog healthy so it can enjoy a long and productive life. Canine Intestinal Worms and Inexpensive Treatment This article will discuss the four primary types of worms that infect the canine digestive tract (intestines), and the least expensive and most effective way to rid your animals of these parasites. The four primary types of canine worms are Hookworms, Roundworms, Tapeworms, and Whipworms. Hookworms   
There are four species of hookworms that infect dogs (Ancylostoma braziliense, Ancylostoma caninum, Ancylostoma tubaeforme, and Uncinaria stenocephala). In dogs, A. caninum is the most common hookworm and causes the worst disease. A. tubaeforme is more common in cats than dogs, and is less likely to cause severe disease than A. caninum. Dogs in the Northern states and in Canada are more likely to be infected with U. stenocephala as it prefers cold climates and A. caninum prefers warm climates. A canium hookworm infestation in dogs can lead to severe anemia, especially in puppies. These hookworms have big appetites and attach to the intestine and feed on the dog's blood. The other three types of hookworms are less likely to cause severe anemia but it is a potential problem with them. Signs of hookworm infection include weight loss, pale color, black or tarry looking stools, weakness, anemia and death. In areas in which hookworms are prevalent there can be skin disease in pets associated with exposure to the larval worms as well. The following are a list of clinical signs of hookworm infestation in canines: Dose, age, immune status dependent; may be severe and life-threatening Primarily a disease of puppies, since adult dogs exposed as puppies have a premune status due to presence of arrested larvae Dermatitis Puppy pneumonia Enteritis, bloody diarrhea, blood loss anemia Life threatening for pups - may show signs as early as 2 to 3 weeks of age in a peracute case (puppy crashes without prior signs of disease) or may occur in an acute stage at 3 weeks to weaning where there are eggs in the feces, bloody stool hookworms can be acquired from the mother's milk, from penetration of the skin by hookworm larvae in the environment and from eating hookworm larvae. Some vets think that it may also be transmitted during pregnancy from mothers to puppies but this is controversial. One of the problems with hookworms is that they can accidentally infect humans. This creates a problem called cutaneous larva migrans, which loosely translates to worms migrating through the skin. Humans pick up the hookworm larvae from areas contaminated by dog feces and they penetrate the human's skin just like they would the dog's. Since they don't belong in the human they don't develop into adults but just migrate around in the skin, causing sores and inflammation, until they die. This is a good reason to keep dogs and cats from defecating in playground areas, beaches and other places where people's skin is likely to come in contact with the ground. Fortunately, the monthly heartworm preventatives are also effective at controlling hookworms and can provide a measure of protection against the possibility of the cutaneous larva migrans syndrome occurring in the humans that own dogs and cats on heartworm preventative medications. In areas in which heartworms are not a problem but hookworms are, it is a good idea to consider having a pet's stool examined for the presence of worm eggs once a year and when clinical signs that may indicate infestation occur. Roundworms   
Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonina) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major hygienic concern because they are transmissible to people. Because people get infected by ingestion of dirt contaminated with the feces of infected dogs, roundworm elimination should be the concern on every responsible pet owner. An average-sized dog passes 136 grams of feces daily and it is known that a dog with a "light" roundworm infection may pass 10,000 eggs in every gram of stool. If 12% of the 80 million dogs in America have "light" infections, 1,300 metric tons of dog feces containing 13 trillion roundworm eggs are discharged in the streets and lands of America every day!! In different surveys, 0.3 - 15% of soil samples and 7 - 31% of house yards or children's sandboxes contained roundworm eggs. Your plan of attack to eradicate roundworm infection should be: to eliminate roundworm infection from dogs; to prevent dog defecation in areas frequented by people, and; to educate your family and friends about the risks and appropriate control measures. Concerned pet owners should collect their pets' feces every day and place them in the garbage or burn it. Flushing the feces down the toilet is inappropriate because many eggs survive sewage treatment. There is some fear that roundworms may be passed by a puppy licking the owner. While the transmission rate through this avenue of infection is probably very, very low it is still a good idea to observe good hygiene and wash hands and faces after playing with the puppy. Also, Humans should clean vegetables grown in the garden before eating them. For most people, these preventative measures are just normal procedures but it is good to know there is a reason for all this caution! Because pups may start passing eggs as early as day 21 of life, the first treatment must be administered before this age. Since re-infection is common from the environment as well as in the mother's milk, treatment must often be repeated every two weeks until the pups are 49 days old. In practical terms, this means treating pups at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Bitches should be treated at the same time as the pups since they are most often the source of the pups infection. All bitches should be presumed to be carriers of roundworms even if they have had negative fecals prior to whelping since the worms often persist in her system in a resting stage. The following list discusses how bitches carry roundworms and infect pups before they are even born: * Roundworm larvae migrate to somatic tissue (liver and lungs), including skeletal muscle and remain there in a quiescent state * Only resume activity in pregnant bitches following the 42nd day gestation (third trimester) * May establish an infection of the small intestine by tracheal migration * Usually infect the fetus via the umbilical vessels; initially they attack the pups liver, then lungs at birth * This is the primary reason that bitches should be wormed before breeding, during the last week of gestation, and each time the pups are wormed. Once the initial infection is treated properly it is a good idea to occasionally check a stool sample for the presence of worms or to consider prophylactically administering de-worming medications if the situation seems to warrant it. It is hoped that at some point in the future a vaccine will become available for roundworm control since current control measures seem to be only marginally effective. For the present however, routine treatment of pups and bitch, as well as environmental control are necessary and essential. Tapeworms   
Tapeworms (Taenia pisiformis, Dipylidium canium, Enchinococcus granulosus, and Echinococcus multilocularis) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major hygienic concern because they are transmissible to people. Dog-rabbit tapeworms (T. pisiformis) have a life cycle that starts with them living in the small intestines of wild foxes, coyotes, and wolves where they produce eggs that are shed in the feces and subsequently contaminate the local environment. Rabbits then become infected by ingesting these eggs which then form hundreds or even thousands of "hydatid cysts" in the tissues. When dogs or their wild cousins eat these rabbits they can be infected with hundreds to thousands of adults. These adults latch onto the wall of the intestines and after about a month, start shedding eggs. These eggs are then immediately infective to other animals, including people. To complicate matters further, these tapeworm eggs can remain infective in the environment for several months. Infected dogs may seem clinically normal while shedding large numbers of infective eggs. The eggs are generally first seen in your dog's feces or sticking to the hair around your dog's rear. These specialized muscular egg cases are actually segments of the worm that are full of eggs and they look like a small, flattened, grain of white rice that moves. As the egg case wiggles around it is spreading thousands of tapeworm eggs which are too small for the naked-eye to see. Adult tapeworms appear to cause very few clinical problems in dogs. However, this is the real point of concern since infected people are not as lucky. Alveolar hydatid disease in humans, caused by Echinococcus multilocularis, is a very serious infection that usually involves the liver. Early in the course of the infection, patients may be misdiagnosed with other liver ailments. Involvement of other tissues, including the lungs and brain can also occur. Since over 50% of people with alveolar hydatid disease die, this is considered the most lethal worm infection that people get. It is therefore important for all dogs and cats in high-risk areas be screened for tapeworm infection. This is more difficult than it sounds since infection with Echinococcus eggs can not be readily differentiated from the more common tapeworms which do not affect people. Veterinarians finding tapeworm eggs on fecal exams usually closely examine pets for the rice-like grains known as proglottids which are found with common tapeworms but not the lethal variety. Occasionally more dramatic methods are necessary to try to recover worms from suspect pets. A more convenient blood test is available to diagnose infection in people and hopefully similar tests will soon become suitable for pets. The best defense is increased public awareness of this condition. Personal protection and hygiene are important, especially to those individuals that may contact feces from potentially-infected pets. Children are particularly at risk. Mulch that contains feces from dogs, cats, wolves or foxes should not be used on gardens. Dogs should be discouraged from consuming rabbits or any other type of wild rodent. Fortunately for pets, there are medicines that are safe and very effective for treatment. People are not as lucky and surgery still remains the preferred treatment. In conclusion, Echinococcus multilocularis, may cause a mild problem in pets but if people get infected, the results can be fatal. In order to minimize the risk of human infection the public must increase its awareness of the potential complications that are associated with the parasites. Whipworms   
Surveys consistently identify whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) as one of the most common parasitic worms of dogs in North America, while only infrequently being reported in cats or humans. They live in the lower aspects of the intestines (the cecum and colon) where they latch on to feed. Sometimes they cause no problems at all but they may cause abdominal upset (colic) or diarrhea, often tainted by blood and mucus. When eggs are laid in the intestines, they pass into the feces and become infective within 9-10 days. When consumed by dogs the infective eggs hatch in the intestines and the larvae parasitize the intestines and matures further. Many people do not realize that dogs do not begin to shed whipworm eggs in their stool until about 3 months after being infected. At that time each female whipworm may pass from 1000 to 4000 eggs per day into the stool. Complicating matters further are that female whipworms are long-lived, surviving for months or years in the intestines. The life cycle therefore includes a larval stage in the small intestine, an adult stage in the large intestine, and infective eggs that pass into the feces. Diagnosis is not always easy since it depends on finding whipworm eggs in the feces. Remember that animals are infected for 3 months before they begin to shed eggs and you can appreciate the problem. Once females begin shedding eggs, they are usually recoverable by direct smears and centrifugal flotation. They are not as easily found with standard fecal evaluations. In some instances, the adult worms are actually seen attached to the lower bowel during endoscopic procedures. Treatment is also not straightforward because of the peculiar life cycle of this parasite. Although many medicines are effective in removing adult worms, the larvae are less reliably cleared. Therefore treatment must often be repeated in 3 weeks and often, in 3 months as well, when the larvae have evolved into egg-producing adults. The biggest hindrance to effective treatment is that animals are often re-exposed to environments in which whipworm eggs are plentiful, and are thereby re-infected. It can be difficult to control exposure to whipworm eggs on lawns or soil but concrete can be effectively disinfected. Proper disposal of egg-containing dog feces is critical. Inexpensive Treatment The cost to effectively keep worm infestations out of your dogs may be entirely too much if you take the dog to a Veterinarian. A Vet will use a multitude of expensive de-wormers. The cost for the Veterinarian treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to a lot of money per year. This article is presented only as a documentation of how you can treat canine intestinal worm infestations in the dogs you own at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the expensive worming tests and de-worming treatments. The easiest and most inexpensive, all-around, de-worming treatment available is Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard). It is virtually 100% effective against all four types of canine intestinal worms. If you buy deworming medications that are made and packaged specifically for dogs, you will be paying a fortune for them. After reading this article and seeing how often you need to treat your dog(s) for worms, you may want to follow the advice below. 
| Safe-Guard 10% Suspension (Fenbendazole) |
Instead of buying and using only dog/puppy de-wormers, you can use the Safe-Guard 10% suspension horse/cattle de-wormer. You can use this for all dogs that are at least 2 weeks old. This liquid de-wormer comes in a 1000 ml bottle and contains 100 mg per ml of the active ingredient which is Fenbendazole. This is much cheaper to buy on a yearly basis than any other deworming product. You can purchase this huge bottle for only $104.95 (accurate price as of 04/20/2008) from Lambert Vet Supply by simply clicking on the photo to the left of this paragraph. It is about 100 times cheaper than any other dog/puppy dewormers made. Also, please note that several of the commercial dog/puppy dewormers are only effective against two or three of the different types of canine intestinal worms; therefore, you would be forced to buy two or three different kinds of dewormers, yet the Safe-Guard 10% suspension horse/cattle de-wormer is effective against all four types. The recommended dosage of this exact product and strength is 1 ml (which contains 100 mg active ingredient) per 5 lbs of dog bodyweight. For example, a 75 lb dog would receive 15 ml per day for a 3 day period (total 3-day treatment consists of 45 ml). With a 1000 ml bottle you have enough de-wormer to treat a kennel full of dogs on a bi-monthly treatment program for a very long time. For example, this one bottle of de-wormer will treat thirty (22) dogs ( avg. 75lb dogs) for a full three-day treatment. As long as all pups are eating and equally active, you should de-worm each litter at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks. Adult dogs are proactively treated for worms on the fifteenth of every other month. Fenbendazole is always administered for 3-consecutive days rather than only one day, to be sure your puppies and dogs are 100% worm-free. Do not give heartworm medication and de-wormer at the same time. Two weeks apart is recommended. Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard or Panacur) is one of the safest dewormers on the market. Fasting is not required and it is safe during pregnancy and lactation. This is a list of the attributes of the Benzimidazole (BZD) type dewormers such as Fenbendazole: Actions: the antiparasitic action of Fenbendazole paste 10% is believed to be due to the inhibition of energy metabolism in the parasite Contraindications: no known contraindications observed, even when administered to young, sick, or debilitated animals Very wide margin of safety with regards to dose If you have a kennel of dogs, then buying the Safe-Guard 10% suspension horse/cattle de-wormer will definitely save you a lot of money each year. This de-worming treatment will stay effective for up to three (3) years if kept refrigerated once opened. Don't wait until you see worms in your dog's feces before treating them, but rather be proactive in de-worming your dogs. You should de-worm bitches before breeding, during the last week of pregnancy, and each time you de-worm your pups. Treat pups with the appropriate de-wormers described above at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Also, treat all of your dogs every other month. Also, don't forget that this de-worming treatment with Fenbendazole every other month has the added benefit of ridding and preventing giardiasis in all of your dogs. If you follow this deworming treatment schedule you will see a significant improvement in your dog's appearance because you will be ridding your hound(s) of intestinal worms before any damage is done. Remember, always keep your kennel(s) disinfected and your backyard clean of feces. Dispose of your dog's feces as often as possible -- preferably daily. You will be happy because your dog(s) body and your family's living environment will be worm-free. Canine Heartworms and Inexpensive Prevention   
This article will discuss the canine heartworms and how you can keep them from infecting your dog at the absolute lowest cost. If you live in the United States, you have heartworms (Dirofilaria immitis) in your area. This parasite is present in all fifty states, but most common in the more temperate parts of the country. The heartworm larva (Dirofilaria immitis microfilariae) is spread from dog to dog by mosquitoes. When an infected mosquito feeds off a dog, it passes the infection into the bloodstream. The larva or microfilariae stay in the bloodstream for a period of time and then attach themselves to the inside of the heart and can also be found in the blood vessels of the lungs. When they mature in the heart they add their own microfilariae to the blood stream. The adult worms cause debilitating disease, reduce performance, and may cause death. The dog can usually be cured if the heartworm infestation is diagnosed early enough. The cost of this cure can vary from a minimum of $175 to as much as $350 or more. After treatment, the dog must be laid up for a minimum of 30 days -- that is the bad news. The good news is that heartworms can be prevented for less than one cent per day for a 20 pound dog . Yes, I said less than one cent per day (30 cents monthly). This article is presented only as a documentation of how to prevent heartworms in your dog(s) at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the Merck Heartgard chewable tablets. Also, the law restricts Heartgard to use by or on the order of a licensed Veterinarian; therefore, if you use the prescription tablets you will be paying $15 - $45 for a box of 6 tablets (six month supply) plus the cost of an occasional office visit. You can use the same chemical that is in those expensive (prescription only) pills at a fraction of the cost. The prevention that I use is given once every 30 days (monthly) the same as the pills. In parts of the country during the coldest times of the year when no mosquitoes could survive, the prevention can even be suspended until the weather starts warming up again. If you suspect a dog may already have heartworms, before putting a dog on the following prevention it should be checked by a Vet to be sure it has no heartworms. The cost of this exam is generally between $5 - $15. It is a lot cheaper to have the exam to make sure your dog is not already infected, than it is to have a Vet save an infected dog during the advanced stages of heartworm infestation. This prevention (describe below) is only good to prevent an infection from ever occurring, once a dog is already infected then it must be given the very expensive treatment described in the first paragraph of this page. The exam consists of a vet drawing a small amount of blood, putting a smear of it on a slide and looking at it through a microscope. The microfilariae look like tiny wiggler fishing worms. This prevention is not to be given to collies or part collies. Ivermectin is used. It is a 1% injectible cattle wormer with the trade name of Ivomec. You can purchase it (without a prescription) for $40 - $50 at your Veterinarian Supply Store or through a catalog from a Vaccine Wholesale Supplier. The bottle comes in a 50cc size. Give it orally. You use 1/10th of 1cc for each 10 pounds of body weight. The syringes used are 3cc and are marked off in tenths of 1cc. Draw out 2cc of Ivomec. Then inject what is needed into an empty syringe (without a needle) with the plunger pulled down on the 1cc mark. Dribble it into the empty one until you have the proper amount. You should have a few ounces of soft drink or orange juice in an open container. Draw in 1½ - 2cc of the juice to mix with the Ivomec. Put your finger over the end of the syringe and shake up the mixture. The reason for this is to give you more volume to work with and to make it taste better for the dog. Put your hand across the dog's nose with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other side. Then put pressure on your thumb and fingers to force open the dog's mouth. Tip the dogs head up and squirt the contents of the syringe in the roof of its mouth. Finally, close the mouth and hold it closed until the dog swallows. This is the only correct way to orally administer all types of liquid medications to dogs so that you do not accidentally squirt the liquid into the dog's windpipe and/or lungs. Do this treatment for every dog once every 30 days. The Ivomec kills all those little microfilariae (larva) in the bloodstream so they never have a chance to mature into heartworms. Microfilariae will circulate in the blood for more than 30 days before attaching to the heart, so if you give this prevention on schedule there is "NO POSSIBLE WAY" for your dog to get heartworms. Even if a drug is labeled as safe for pregnant and/or lactating bitches, it is not recommended that you give any kind of medications to a pregnant bitch unless the life of the bitch is in grave danger; however, you can give medications to lactating bitches. The difference is the pups are already born and not in their developing and forming stages in the womb. The cost is very minimal for each dog. If the 50cc bottle of Ivomec costs you $40.00, this is 80 cents per cc. Given 12 months in a row, a 80 lb. dog will take 10 cc per year. That is a cost of $10.00 for a one year prevention. The shelf life for the Ivomec is about 3 years if kept refrigerated. Therefore, this method is feasible to use even if you only have one dog, and it is by far the cheapest and most effective prevention against heartworms. If you have two or more dogs this can save you hundreds of dollars per year.
ANTIBIOTICS At some point most dogs are going to need a dose of antibiotics, either as a preventative measure or to cure an infection of some type. Antibiotics are pretty simple and safe to use, provided you follow three simple rules: 1) Use the right drugs 2) Give the right dose 3) Keep the dog on the medicine long enough
The goal with antibiotics is to hammer down the infection and not give it a chance to develop resistance before it is wiped out. This means that keeping the dog on the antibiotics long enough is critical. If a dogs starts to look better after a few days, do NOT take it off the drugs! An antibiotic regime should last at least 7 days, and 12 days is better in most cases. The general rule of thumb is give the dog antibiotics for at least three days longer than it looks like there is a problem. If you skimp on the length of the dosage, you may really regret it later on, as the drugs you were using may no longer do the trick. Where Can You Get Antibiotics?  
(Cephalexin Monohydrate 250mg) (500mg of cephalexin monohydrate)
If you prefer to order your medications outright, you can order Cephelaxin (Fish-Flex) pictured above from most dog catalogs and it will cure 99% of your flesh wounds as well as most urinary tract and ear infections. Cephalexin or Cefalexin is sold as a fish antibiotic in dog catalogs with full-knowledge it is being used for off-label treatment in dogs. It should cost about $30 for 100 250 mg. capsules. Dogs and Cats: For every 5-14 lbs, use 1 250 mg capsule every 6-8 hours orally. For larger dogs, you may want to get Fish-Flex Forte because the dosage is 500 mg which means you can give 1 capsule for every 10-30 lbs. What drugs should you use and at what dose? Cephalexin: This is one of the best drugs for skin and wound infections and I use it for almost everything. It is easy to come by without prescription, and inexpensive. Two common brand names are Keflex and Celaxin, and it is often prescribed for acne. Cephalexin only comes in oral form, and the dose is 15 mg per pound of body weight, given every 8 to 12 hours depending on the severity of the problem. If you are using a maintenance dose, give it every 12 hours. If the dog has an infection already, use it every 8 hrs. Either Cephalexin or Clavamox (see below) are “must have" drug for your vet kit. The fish-version of cephalexin is called cefalexin (Fish-Flex) and can be ordered in 250 mg capsules without a prescription. The 250 mg capsule is a perfect dose for a 15 pound dog. Penicillin: If it's the capsule form, forget it unless it's the only antibiotic you have. A lot of infections are immune to penicillin, and it generally won’t help a staph infection at all. If this is the only antibiotic you have and you are on a desert island, use it, but otherwise look for something stronger. Indictable penicillin is not worth the trouble when we have so many other readily available options, such as cephelaxin (Fish-Flex).   (250 mg Amoxicillin) (500 mg Amoxicillin)
Amoxicillin: This is a general "all purpose" antibiotic that is cheap and easy to come by, but it does not knock down staph infections. The oral dosage for amoxicillin is 10 mg per pound of dog, given every 8 to 12 hours, depending on the severity of the problem. The fish-version of amoxicillin (Fish-Mox) can be ordered in 250 mg capsules or (Fish-Mox Forte) can be ordered in 500 mg capsules without a prescription from Revival Animal Health or any other online pet store. You probably have some old amoxicillin around the house from the last time you got sick. This is fine to use even if "expired" more than a year ago. Clavamox: This is very similar to Amoxicillin but is a bit stronger and this one will knock down a staph infection -- an important difference between the two drugs. Clavamox will also treat respiratory infections and ear infections, so it's a good all-rounder, as is cephalexin. Clavamox is only given orally. The oral dose is 6.25 mg per pound, and it comes pre-packaged in foil strips in 3 sizes. There are 62.5 mg for 10-pound puppies, 125 mg for 20 pound dogs, and 250 mg for 40-pound dogs. Although both Clavamox and Augmentin are expensive, they are worth it because they work for a lot of different kinds of problems. Your dog may throw up on Clavamox or Augmentin – this is not terribly unusual if your dog has a weak stomach. You will need a perscription for this antibiotic. Baytril: This is a pretty powerful antibiotic, and should only be given when other antibiotics have failed or if the dog already has a serious infection. Baytril works very well for skin, ear, wound, urinary, and mammary infections. In tablet form the dose for Baytril is 5.7 mg per 5 pounds of weight given orally twice a day (every 12 hours). For a 20 pound dog you would give one of the 22.7 mg tablets every 12 hours, or two of the 22.7 mg tablets once a day. You will need a perscription for this antibiotic. No matter what antibiotic you choose to use, you must ralways emember the three rules of giving antibiotics: 1) Use the right drugs 2) Give the right dose 3) Keep the dog on the medicine long enough Always remember that this information is provided to help you be able to care for your pet. If your pet seems like it has a persistent or life-threatening problem, seek immediate veterinarian advise. Canine Chocolate Toxicosis Many people think of chocolate as the ultimate treat, but this innocent, but fattening treat can be deadly for dogs. A lively dog, finding an open bag of chocolate morsels, wolfed them down as fast as he could. His owner thought little of the incident, and cleaned up the mess left by his pet. That evening the dog collapsed and died. What would cause the healthy dog to die so suddenly, a new canine virus? No, the ailment was a little known, but nonetheless deadly problem called Chocolate Toxicosis, or chocolate poisoning. The element in the chocolate that is so deadly to dogs is a substance called Theobromide. The size of the dog and type of chocolate have a bearing on the amount of "Goodie" that will cause toxic results. Chocolate is not a treat that pet owners should dole out to their unsuspecting but loving canine friends Holidays are especially dangerous times, when large quantities of candy and other chocolate treats may be found in the home. Chocolate has a tempting taste that pets and owners alike can enjoy. Since our dogs are often considered members of the family, it is natural to wish to share our treats. But this is one treat that should be kept out of his or her reach. Dr. Sullivan, a toxicologist at the University of Illinois Veterinary Medical School, says the problem of Toxicosis "can be significant, especially during the holidays when people do a lot of baking with chocolate”. The unsweetened or baking chocolate is the most dangerous as it contains the highest percentage of Theobromide per once; 400 MG per once as compared to 45 MG per ounce to milk chocolate. Usually toxic symptoms will occur when 100 MG of Theobromide are ingested per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of the animal's weight. So a 20 pound dog can succumb with the ingestion of just two ounces of baking chocolate The chart below shows the toxic amount of milk chocolate and baking chocolate for various weights of dogs. Although these show life-threatening levels, ingestion of smaller amounts can cause your pet to experience considerable discomfort. The symptoms of Theobromide poisoning are numerous and they appear within a few hours or up to a day after the chocolate ingestion. Chocolate stays in the animal's stomach a long time. As the Theobromide is absorbed into the bloodstream, the animal can exhibit the following symptoms: 1) Vomiting 2) Diarrhea 3) Diuresis (Urinary incontinence 4) Hyperactivity 5) Rapid breathing/heartbeat 6) Muscle tremors 7) Seizures 8) Coma There is no antidote to Theobromide poisoning. Treatment is geared toward supporting the animals basic life functions, preventing further absorption of the chocolate, hastening elimination, and treating the symptoms. If less than two hours have passed since the ingestion, the first step is to induce vomiting. This should get rid of 70% of the stomach's contents. The chocolate can melt and form a ball in the stomach, which can be difficult to remove. If the dogs has eaten an amount that can be toxic (see chart) it is not enough to just induce vomiting. The animal should be placed under the care of a veterinarian until the danger has passed. The vet will give the dog repeated doses of activated charcoal to move the poison through the system faster and with less absorption. The vital signs (heart rate and respiration) must be carefully monitored during this treatment. The best treatment is prevention of the accidental ingestion. Keep your dog out of danger by: 1) Never leave chocolate unattended within easy reach of your pet 2) Never feed chocolate candy as a treat 3) Never assume an animal is fine if it vomits after eating chocolate Chocolate Toxicosis is a killer, but it is a killer that can be prevented from killing. If you think your dog has ingested a dangerous amount of chocolate, consult a vet at once. Dangerous Amounts of Chocolate Dog's Weight | Amount of Milk Chocolate | Amount of Unsweetened Chocolate | Approx. MG of Theobromide | 5 lbs. | 4 oz. | 1/2 oz. | 200 | 10 lbs. | 8 oz. | 1 oz. | 400 | 20 lbs. | 16 oz. | 2 1/2 oz. | 900 | 30 lbs. | 1 1/4 lbs. | 3 3/4 oz. | 1300 | 40 lbs. | 2 1/2 lbs. | 4 1/2 oz. | 1800 | 50 lbs. | 3 lbs. | 5 1/2 oz. | 2250 | 60 lbs. | 3 3/4 lbs. | 6 3/4 oz. | 2700 | 70 lbs. | 4 3/4 lbs. | 8 1/2 oz. | 3400 |
 De-skunking Home Remedy  Crossing the path of a skunk can leave your pet smelling like the cartoon character Pepe Le Pew. To help alleviate the irritating, powerful odor, a world-renown veterinary by the name of Dale C. Johnson, DVM offers a homemade recipe to have your dog or cat smell less like a skunk. Dr. Johnson has tried several experiments to remove the skunk smell from sprayed animals. As a Beagle owning veterinarian, he says many of the common antidotes that people try, but fail to do the job, are tomato juice, vinegar and different types of shampoos. Dale recommends an easy home recipe using ingredients that can be found in most drugstores. * One quart 3 percent hydrogen peroxide * One-fourth cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) * One teaspoon liquid soap He says to begin by wetting the animal down, then apply the mixture and work it through the animal's hair. Leave the solution on three to four minutes, and finish with a tap water rinse. Caution: Make up only as much of the de-skunking remedy as you can use at one time. It is unsafe to bottle and store this chemical combination "The following is under construction" Tapping Puppy Ears There are several reasons as to why a puppy’s ears might not stand up the way they should. It could be because the pup has weak cartilage, is sick or teething, the ear is weighed down with a lot of fur, or just sheer laziness of the pup. Sometimes puppies need help getting their ears to stand up, whether it be Malamute pups, German Shepherd pups, Mastiff pups, Terrier pups, Doberman pups, Great Dane pups, Collie pups, etc. Each dog breed has their own type of ear position and setting so you need to make sure that you are taping the correct way for your puppy. We do not recommend taping ears until the puppy is 4 - 5 months so that you have given the ears a sufficient amount of time to stand on their own. Below, is the best method that we have found for taping the ears of an Alaskan Malamute puppy. Prior to trying to tape your puppy’s ears, please read over the following information. 
1” Polyethylene Pipe Insulation at your local hardware store 
TORBOT Liquid Bonding Cement at http://www.torbot.com/
Coflex or Coban self adhesive medical wrap (natural or color) at your local feed store, drug store http://www.kvsupply.com/Shop;jsessionid=726D3290290A9CABE018ECAE4BA1F569?actn=quickadvancedsearch&searchtype=all&overridesrcdsp=70001&wildcardType=right&keyword=coflex  
½” - 1” waterproof adhesive tape or electrical tape at your local hardware store or drug store 
E collar/Elizbethan coller (these are made in several sizes and colors, you will probably want to get a small-medium depending on size of dog. You should measure the puppy’s neck prior to buying one.) http://www.petco.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?Nav=1&N=0&Ntt=e+collar http://www.petsmart.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=e-collar&origkw=e%20collar&sr=1 Scissors Electric razor Alcohol Cotton balls or wipes Directions This process is best done with two people. 1. It’s best to have everything prepared ahead of time and sitting in front of you. A. Start by cutting (2) 9” strips of Coflex/Coban self adhesive medical tape and set aside. B. Cut (2) 6” strips of waterproof medical tape or electrical tape and set aside. C. Cut (4) 3” strips of waterproof medical tape or electrical tape and set aside. D. Cut (2) 12” strip of waterproof medical tape or electrical tape and set aside. E. Cut 3” - 4” piece of polyethylene pipe insulation and set the remainder aside. 
Take the 3” - 4” section and cut it in half lengthwise (there should be a line on the foam already started that you can use as a guide. Cut the other side of the foam the same way so that you have 2 even pieces. After cutting the pieces, take one and insert it in your dogs ear to measure it. The end of the foam should set just below the base of the ear but not down into the ear canal. Once you have measured the correct length, cut the excess off and round the corners for comfort. Now set the 2 foam pieces aside. 2. Careful not to cut the pup, use scissors/razor to cut or shave as much of the fur off the ear as possible. Remove the fur from the tip of the ear to the base on the outer side of the ear. Remove the scraggly fur at the base and get as much of the fur from the inside of the ear as possible because this is where the glue must stick. With wooly or fluffy pups, you may want to shave the hair on their head right between the ears (this will make it easier when you get to further steps). Be very careful around the edge of the puppies ears. It is quite easy to accidentally clip the pup when doing the edges. 3. Once the fur has been removed from the inside and outer ear and your puppy looks quite pathetic, it is time to clean the ears. Place some alcohol on a cotton ball or wipe and gently clean out the inside of the ear. Make sure that all the dirt has been removed and let the ear dry for a minute. 
(We are going to use Kira as our model, a pup we have for sale, so I am going to skip the shaving of the fur portion.) 4. While waiting for the pup’s ear to dry, brush a thin layer of TORBOT Liquid Bonding Cement on the outsides of the foam pieces that you will be using. 5. Take one of the puppy’s ears and gently pull it up straight. Insert the foam piece securing the glued side to the puppy’s ear and hold for about a minute. 
6. Once the glue has set, take one of the 9” strips of Coflex/Coban self adhesive medical tape and starting at the base, gently wrap around the ear until you reach the top. Make sure that you do not wrap the ear too tightly. You’re only using the wrap to keep the ear up not to apply pressure. 
7. When you have finished wrapping the puppy’s ear, take one of the 3” strips of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape and place it over the seam where the wrap has ended. This will secure the wrap from unraveling. 
8. Now take one of the 6” strips of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape and loosely wrap it around the edge of the medical wrap at the base of the puppy’s ear. This is to secure the wrap from unraveling at the base. 
9. Repeat steps 5 - 8 with the second ear. By now, you are probably in tears as to how ridiculous you have made your puppy look and are profusely apologizing to him/her. Get over it. Your pup doesn’t care. Just give him/her a treat and some love and all will be forgiven. 
Now this is where you can really use a helping hand or two or three or four. 10. As one person tries to hold the puppy’s face straight and at the same time gently pull the ears up, the other person needs to take one of the 12” strips of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape and carefully wrap it around both ears. It is recommended that the person holding the puppy’s ears up pulls them about 2” outward because once you are finished with this step, you may find your puppy’s ears going inward as the medical tape/electric tape tightens. 
11. Once the tape has been wrapped around both ears and you are cussing up a storm because you didn’t listen when I said that you might want to cut the fur between the ears as well, take one of the 3” strips of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape and wrap it around the center of the 12” strip that is wrapped around both ears. Yeah, you are probably cussing a lot more now as you try to keep the pup’s fur from getting tangled in this piece. 12. After you’ve finished the base of the ears, you are going to do the same thing with the top of the ears. At this point, you really want to make sure they are set straight. Wrap the last 12” strip of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape around the top of both ears as a brace. Take the last 3” strip of waterproof medical tape/electrical tape and wrap it around the center of the 12” strip that is wrapped around both ears. 
13. Now to make your puppy look even more ridiculous! Place that overpriced lamp shade (e collar) around his/her neck so that your pup doesn’t undo everything in 20 seconds that has just taken you over an hour to do. You might want to place a little medical tape/electrical tape over the seam of the e collar so your pup doesn’t bang it on the wall, floor or anything else and gets it off. Oh, and by the way, watch your lower legs. Your pup will be running around with that lamp shade around his/her neck and not realize when to stop and crash into your legs a couple hundred times before this is all over. 
(We'll use our pup Kovu as a model here because I don't have an e-collar on hand at the moment) 14. Leave this on for one week, checking frequently that your ears do not get infected. They will usually turn warm or red if infection sets in. After a week, it is time take the dressings off and see if your pup‘s ears are erect. Probably not yet! If they are, they’ll soon fall down again, so don’t get your hopes up. 15. After removing the dressings, let the pup run around for an hour to let the ears air out. If the ears are still not up, you will have to tape them again for another week. This process can take a couple of months, but with each time, you’ll be able to do it quicker and quicker.  .JPG) 
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